Where to start with mechanical keyboards

2025-10-18

Mechanical keyboards are tools that can improve the comfort of computer work: to have a setup that allows for sustainable long-term use. Two years ago, I was suffering from RSI. Switching to a split mechanical keyboard while also taking care of all other variables in my office setup helped me recover from the injury and remain highly productive. Mechanical keyboards are expensive if you think of them as mere keyboards, though they actually are cheap if you consider that they can save you from visiting doctors too frequently.

To me, the most important quality of a keyboard is how easy it is to use for a single typing session of, say, 30 minutes to an hour (there should be a break afterwards). At the physical level, this refers to its layout, the feel of the key switches, and the shape of the key caps. Then there are other factors, which I consider secondary but still important, such as the sound profile.

Acoustics contribute to “comfort”, if we assume that a pleasantly sounding board ultimately does not distract you, while something you actively dislike will keep disturbing you.

There is no one answer on what to do, though I have arrived at some crystallised thoughts that I describe below.

Use one-shot modifiers or home-row modifiers

Before you even check a custom keyboard, research how you can use either your operating system or dedicated software to get “one-shot modifiers” (or “sticky modifiers”) or “home-row modifiers” (alias “home-row mods”).

These are two different styles of configuration for accessing modifier keys like Ctrl and Shift:

• The one-shot modifier scheme allows you to tap on a modifier and then hit a key to register a modifier+key input. For example, to input Ctrl-c, you press and release Ctrl and then type c. Modifiers can still be held down to perform their normal function, though the whole point of this approach is to ease the stress on any one finger by reducing how much each key needs to be held down.
• The home-row modifiers place the modifier keys on the home row (where f and j are on a Qwerty layout) under the existing keys and make them available as a press-and-hold actions. For example, the j key inputs its corresponding character on tap but acts as a Ctrl key when held down. This arrangement optimises for ease-of-reach, as the modifiers are where you rest your fingers, instead of being placed in the periphery of the board.

I personally prefer one-shot modifiers because (i) I prefer not to press and hold too frequently, thus overworking specific fingers, while (ii) I cannot get used to the more sensitive timing of home-row modifiers.

As noted, you do not need a mechanical keyboard to set those up: your existing hardware is enough. Though you can still benefit from a custom keyboard, such as by placing all the modifiers on a thumb cluster while still relying on one-shot modifiers, which is what I do.

Use modifiers on both sides of the keyboard

No matter what you do, get used to activating a modifier with the opposite hand to the one that inputs the desired character. For example, Ctrl-c is the right Ctrl key and then c with the left hand. On a custom mechanical keyboard you have the advantage of moving the modifiers exactly where you need them to be. Though even on the most generic board with one-shot modifiers, it is fairly easy to tap any modifier key to get the job done.

Emacs users, for instance, are well aware of the tweak that makes the Caps Lock a Ctrl key. While this is a good place for the left hand Ctrl modifier, it does not alter the fact that one-handed Ctrl-c is an awkward motion. More so if you get into the common Emacs key bindings of C-x C-s and C-x C-f, among many others that are on the left side of the Qwerty layout.

Same idea for all modifier keys: make an active effort to distribute the workload.

Since I mentioned Emacs, I find that regular keyboards benefit not only from one-shot modifiers but also from this arrangement around the spacebar:

Super Alt Ctrl Space Ctrl Alt Super Fn

This way, the more frequently used Ctrl modifier is under the thumbs and can be reached without curling those fingers too much, making it easier to type all those control character sequences.

More keys are easier than fewer keys

As you search around for mechanical keyboards, you will find a wide variety of boards with a small number of keys. While those can be as productive as a full sized board, they require heavier use of “layers” to access all the key codes.

A layer is the functional equivalent of the Shift key. When Shift is active, for example, the key 1 registers !. In the same spirit, we can have another physical key, e.g. the spacebar, function as a layer activation switch when it is held down, so that, say, j becomes an arrow motion.

Using layers is something you can get used to, but (i) it has a learning curve and (ii) too many layers may still be uncomfortable if you are constantly pressing and holding a key to input certain frequently needed characters.

A good compromise is a keyboard in the 50% to 65% range. This percentage refers to the number of keys relative to a full sized layout. Those smaller offerings do not have a number pad, the navigation cluster (Home, PgUp, etc.), and function keys (e.g. F1), depending on their exact size. The idea is that you get access to the most commonly needed key codes as dedicated physical keys, while the rest is to be done with the use of layers.

As an example, my keyboard (the Iris Revision 8 by Keebio that I got as a gift from “Andreas”) does not have a navigation cluster. I have defined the space and return keys as layer toggles when held, such that h, j, k, l correspond to the arrow keys left, down, up, and right, respectively. Similarly, y, u, i, and o perform the bigger analogous motions of home, pgdn, pgup, and end. Because space and enter are directly under my thumbs, it is very easy for me to move around when I need to.

[ Here is my complete configuration for the Iris: https://github.com/protesilaos/qmk/tree/master/keyboards/keebio/iris/keymaps/prot. ]

Even if you plan to experiment with fewer keys, it is easier to just disable, say, the number row than work at the outset without it.

Opt for a mainstream switch first

Once you spend enough time researching mechanical keyboards, you will know that there are many factors that contribute to the feel of a key switch, beside their classification as “linear”, “tactile”, and “clicky”. Those involve the material of its housing and stem, how long the pole and the spring are, and the amount of lubrication it has. Each configuration results in a different typing feedback and sound profile.

You can explore those options at your own pace, if you want, though I strongly encourage you to not overthink this step. Pick whichever mainstream switch the keyboard vendor is giving you. When in doubt, ask for their baseline “tactile” switch. This is a kind of switch with a bumpy typing feel, such that you are confident you pressed a key.

In terms of sound profile, the only real consideration for a newcomer is whether the switch is silent or not. Technically, no mechanical switch is ever “silent” due to the mechanics involved, though they are quiet enough that you could use them in an office setup without trouble.

If you work from home or in a place where you could disturb others, pick a silent tactile switch and then check what else you need to dampen the sound of your board. Rely on a deskmat, for example, and consider adding some foam to the inside of your keyboard’s housing.

Pick Cherry profile key caps

As with everything in this field, there is a ton of options for the kind of caps you install on top of your switches. Again, I suggest you stick to the mainstream, even though other designs have their merits and fervent proponents.

The “Cherry” profile keycaps, in reference to the company that pioneered them, strike a good balance between all the factors that go into a key cap’s design. They are typically thick enough to not feel brittle, have a decent surface area while still leaving sufficient space between keys to make it easier to type accurately, are short but still have varying height to make the keys further away from the home row easier to reach, and have a broad cylindrical top to not aggressively punish off-centre key presses.

Owning to its popularity, the Cherry profile offers the widest range of options for colourways to choose from, going from classical monotonous styles to flamboyant ones. And if you ever want to upgrade on higher quality materials, chances are you will find Cherry as the number one choice among premium offerings.

Make sure your keyboard is customisable

This typically means that it is powered by QMK. This is an open source project for keyboard firmware. It allows you to modify how your board works. In the most common case, you will have the freedom to map key codes to physical keys and implement your own layers. Then there is the whole setup with the modifiers, as I explained earlier, where you set the timing of what counts as “one-shot” or how long does a press take to qualify as a “hold” action instead of a “tap”. These sort of technicalities will ultimately affect how you type. You will find what works best for you through trial and error.

Whatever you do, avoid FOMO

The Fear Of Missing Out can be quite high when there are so many competing yet seemingly equally viable configurations to work towards. Understand that there are diminishing returns or even negative returns to scale. There is no such thing as the perfect setup. Find one that is comfortable enough and has an acceptable sound profile. In other words, tend towards minimum viable usability, which is not a difficult target, instead of maximal gratification, which forever remains an elusive goal.

Good luck!